Toon Surgery -- What Is Inside a Toon Diecast

[wardster]

Okay, guys ... I decided to start another thread. I know the moderators / board owners said "unmodified" is what this part of the boards is looking for. I'm interpreting that, hopefully correctly (but they'll let me know, if I'm mistaken?) to mean that viewers should see what we are collecting, in its "primary source" form ... or to put it another way, exactly as the manufacturer made it. If that is the case, then when they are saying "unmodified" I'm guessing that means "It was always intended to be a 'toon; and it was sold in that fashion; and here is what the unaltered commercial product looks like". If so, then this thread is appropriate, because what I hope others will do (if they're willing, etc., and motivated to do so) in this thread is show off the "as-made" items, but, with a twist: that item, as it looks, when it is taken apart.

To kick things off, I'll show what the very cute "RV There Yet" by Hot Wheels looks like, when the rivets in the bottom have been (carefully, since several major components are made out of plastic) drilled through.



Three of the four main body parts are made out of plastic: the "window glass" piece, the main (red) body, and the undercarriage or the bottom plate. Only the white "camper" portions are the diecast metal we are used to seeing. So if a person is trying to get rid of the white camper, to concentrate on making something new out of the main red body, know that the remaining parts are all made out of plastic. It's sort of a three-piece plastic kit, with one big but "optional" metal piece.

In case anyone is curious about the "how" of taking it apart, I am showing the two drill bits I went back and forth with, to drill out those two metal rivets, which hold it all together. What one is, is likely self-evident (a step drill: I got it, I think, at Harbor Freight, years ago, in a three-pack) and the other's info from the packaging says it is a "Cobalt" style of a "split point" drill bit, in 7-64th's of an inch size, as made by the company, DeWalt. I used those two not because they're the only kinds that will work, but mainly because I had them; they weren't dull as heck (as far too many of my older, small-diameter drill bits are) and because the step drill's long tip could reach one really recessed rivet, without any problems, or any accidental damage.

Here's what this one looks like, before it gets a round of Toon Surgery, to take it apart:



What I'm hoping other guys will do -- if the moderators are okay with this idea, of course -- is to take apart a diecast, and show what is inside. It's sort of an "unboxing" thread, of "kits" that the manufacturer didn't really intend to be a "kit".

[jcon]

Interesting but now you have to have a new hole tapped for two small screws to get it back together... I have a friend who does this with his grandson's HotWheels when they break them... he repaints them and rebuilds them as needed to make them good as new till the next calamity... lol!!!

[wardster]

> Interesting but now you have to have
> a new hole tapped for two small screws
> to get it back together... I have a
> friend who does this with his grandson's
> HotWheels when they break them... he
> repaints them and rebuilds them as needed
> to make them good as new till the next
> calamity... lol!!!

I guess I was thinking along the lines of "static model" (since that's what these are, to me) rather than "it still needs to work". But there was a time, decades ago, when my nephews were much younger, that they'd hand me stuff and tell me to do this or that to it. The youngest one wanted a Lego-style driver, as a possibility. I fitted a Lego floor into some open-topped Hot Wheels, and he could stand up his "Lego guys" (almost like a giant Fink or monster at the steering wheel -- not that far off, proportionally, anyway, from that idea.) It worked for him at that age.

[wardster]

Another victim, err, umm, I mean, another "Surgery Volunteer" ... this one being a color variation on a tooned 1969 Chevelle. I was surprised how detailed they got, on the interior piece! But I guess it makes sense, given that some bodies were see-through. So anyway: plastic body; plastic window glass; plastic interior. Only the bottom is metal.





And here "he" is, back in the package, after surgery was complete. Note the rim style, which I like better than the ones on the other two color / rim variation versions that I had scanned in.




For what it is worth: what I'm doing is just BARELY removing enough of the rivet material, to get the separate parts apart, without damaging anything. The rivets were all plastic, in this case, since the body was plastic -- so I didn't dare to use a powered drill. I just used the bits, by hand, basically. Anyway, when something like this goes back together, I just gently press fit the parts back together. Having left most of the rivet's shaft, helps. This one went back together with a slight, happy "click" or "snap" (but not the "something just broke" kind of "snap") on both ends of the model, and now it's happily back in its container.

[wardster]

Here's a biggie ... what's inside a 1975 Matchbox brand "Mini Ha-Ha" vehicle.

In taking these photos, I felt I was sort of "taking one for the team" by drilling (gently, carefully) the two front rivets out, which held it all together. A friend on these boards had sent me the example I have, some years ago. ("You know who you are!") Before I lost my nerve, on altering this cool piece of 70's toy history, I did the deed: and now the guys here who don't have one of these in their collection can see what went into one of these presumably pretty rare, and definitely cool old vehicles, with at least a partial, cartoon driver (or pilot?) figure.













Notice that the driver (who, sadly, has his upper face covered up with the "flying helmet" he wears) appears to not only have subtle, sculpted-in eye details, but his right eye seems to be behind a monocle eyepiece! That and facial scars created from dueling with swords, once termed a "Heidelberg Scar," were sort of humorous "villian" stereotypes of German males, back in a certain time period. TV show, "Hogan's Heroes" had Colonel Klink wearing a monocle. Dave Deal used them both to advantage on his box art for the Funfdecker Fokker, if memory serves me correctly.

[Jim Richards]

Alright Wardster, good thread. Yes this is supposed to be for un modified Die cast here, but this is a building board, and I think the bosses here want us to build. Plus we know these Kats here are super cool. (anyway if we get in trouble it's on your thread, LOL)
I have been modifying Die Cast for well over thirty years. They can be a quick project, and still be model work. I don't really have any "tooned" ones to show, but the way I open and close them can relate to anything.
I recently did a couple of Die cast modifying threads on another board, (but not toons, so I won' post them here)
I was in the process of posting this there, but I think it will fit in here also.

I also drill out the rivet looking mount, which is actually a pressed "stem". A long time ago I used to use a Dremel cutting ball, it worked OK, on metal chassis, but still tore things up a little too much


But now I drill them. I don't have a step drill like yours, so I start with a bit slightly larger than the pressed part ("rivet")



Then to a smaller bit


I try not to over drill, as not to melt a plastic chassis, so then I sorta peel the edges away, so the two parts come apart easy



before putting it back together, it may still need deburring





after pressing it all back together, I apply a drop of Bob Smith Industries accelerator


Then a drop of Zap A Gap


Then another drop of accelerator


It makes a strong bond that works on metal and plastic.
Then if you want to open it up again, (like if you forgot to put in the windshield (Jim!) or change something) it drills out real easy. Some of you may prefer to use 5 minute epoxy, but it's thicker you have to mix up more than you need, and then wait for it to dry. Where as, this way is instant. I do all my building this way.
No clamping or drying time.


If you want a finished look, you can always paint it.

Just my way, it has worked on literally "lots" of modified Die Cast.
(hope we're not in trouble, LOL)

Jim

[wardster]

Jim Richards said:

> Just my way, it has worked on literally
> "lots" of modified Die Cast.

Your way is a cool way! The text was quite informative, and the pictures were all top-notch! Thanks for chiming in!

> (hope we're not in trouble, LOL)

Roger that. Heehee. I especially hope we don't get ourselves into any trouble, since I have already begun fitting the wheels and tires from the Hot Wheels "Head Starter" into the red part / forward section of my "RV There Yet".